Gluing with the appropriate glues.
The most important thing about gluing
is to remember that unless the surfaces to be glued are clean you'll only
be gluing dust to dust, the glue must be made to adhere to the
substrate of the surface to be glued.
Not to old glue, paint, dust, grease or anything else, as the join then would not be stronger then the
adherence of the first layer of this to its surface.
In order to glue, it is imperative that the surfaces are cleaned
properly, with a liquid, which dissolves in the glue to be used,
or are mechanically cleaned to a fresh surface. (Sanding, scraping, planing, etc.)
The glue must stick to the surface without any tension, remember glue to
the substrate not to dust or oil.
Different jobs need different glues so make sure you use the right one.
For woodwork there are different glues and each has its own properties
here are the glues I recommend for their jobs;
Constructions;
Strong epoxies such as
T-88
or Araldite K 106.
After 30 years of use I have no complaints of the glue failing except
in conditions where waterproof glues were necessary.
This is a strong and versatile glue which may be changed in color by
use of pigments (except carbon black) or polyester colors, so that it
matches the timber, paint or marble. For to be stained woodwork choose
the finished color.
The glue is gap filling and most times strengthens the timber to be
glued, this is especially important when regluing failed constructions or
pieces with borer holes but please remove the dust.( vacuum or airduster )
Inserting metal or glass fibers into the timber to strengthen the
construction is easy and makes constructions stronger than original.
Due to the glues inherent strength it allows you to glue parts together,
with sloppy or missing construction, lining them up with clamps or
masking tape and then insert the construction such as threaded rods later
after drying.
The glue maybe wiped of with methylated spirits before hardening or
mechanically removed this is made easier when the surfaces on which the
glue is spilled, are waxed or in case of cracks edged with masking tape,
masking tape can also be used to keep the glue from running while drying.
Because no excessive clamping is necessary while drying, jobs can be
held in place or squared up, with masking tape. But remember try to keep
the glue from running out of your construction while drying.
Joining Boards;
Best Glue,Strong epoxies such as
T-88
or Araldite K 106.
I have always avoided the use of pens and dowels especially when gluing
old boards as a cold join will allow you to adjust the level of the boards,
which are seldom straight, to such an degree that one barely has to touch
the surface and therefore avoids loosing color and patina, making the
rejoining virtually undetectable.
When planing the edges to be glued make sure that they match and that any
damage on the top of those edges is planed of as this will show up as gaps
during the final polishing, it is hard to spot 3mm less width on a board
but a 3mm gap is monstrous, make sure that the edges are slightly hollow in
the center before clamping as this will give extra pressure on the end and
help prevent them from opening.
Pieces; Strong epoxies such as
T-88
or Araldite K 106.
For the advantages of color, gap filling, substrate strengthening and
ease of clamping.
I always make al the pieces a little larger and stick them to the job
with sticky tape during the day and then before leaving I glue all the
pieces of that day in one short gluing session, then the next morning I
remove the clamps and work up al the pieces to the correct shape and
start making the next lot.
See "Pieces and how to glue them"for a wider explanation.
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