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Sharpening Tools

Working with sharp tools makes each job so much easier, that I will say, working with blunt tools makes a good job impossible.
The sharpening of most tools will only take a lesser amount of time than trying to finish a job quickly with blunt tools, not forgetting that the quality and satisfaction from a job well done is much greater.
Because differing tools require a different approach to sharpening I haven divided this section in the following chapters;


 

Scrape irons

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Scrape irons are easily sharpened, but an understanding is necessary to catch that else elusive burr.
It is the object to create a smooth, sharp burr on the edge of your cabinet scraper.
the smoothness is required to give the burr not only strength but also to leave behind a surface that is smooth to improve the luster of the timber.
Just having a large burr doesn't make the scraper work so it has to be sharp and sharp at the right spot on the right angle.
This is what I create that makes others try to pinch my scrapers.

As you can see this is a real sharp edge.
To acquire such an edge is not difficult but one has use the following four steps.

  • Filing the edges.
    The edge needs to be filed in the length of the scraper at and angle of about 78°, thus 12° off of being square.
    Using ones finger as a guide, under the file, so that the file moves in the length of the scraper, this prevents the grooves created by filing to escape out of the side of the scraper, which would weaken the burr.

    After filing, one has to hone or whet the edge, till it is smooth and sharp were the edge meets the front and back of the scraper.

  • Whetting or Honing the edges

    The object is to make the edge very smooth as well as sharp, because if the corner ( were the edge meets the back or front of the scraper ) is not smooth all along its length then the burr will break after setting, thus negating all the work put into making it.
    Here is where we create the sharpness of the scraper the burr is merely to set the sharp edge up at the right angle.
    So after filing rub the edge, be sure to maintain the 78° angle to the whetstone, along the whetstone, then the front and the back, al three surfaces, alternatively until the edges are really sharp without any burrs.

    I find the use of a fine diamond sharpening stone
    very useful for this as the stone will not develop grooves which would make the edge round and lessen the sharpness of the burr.

    Finishing with a
    very fine diamond sharpening stone
    or a #3000 grid whetstone using water as the lubricant.
    I hate using oil on my honing stones as the slightest bit of oil on the fingers can leave unsightly blemishes on the woodwork due to the change in stain or dye absorption.

  • Drawing out the Burr

    Once the edge is sharp I draw out the top corner as this is the sharpest.
    The sharp corner on the bottom I use without a burr as this type of edge is ideal for scraping runners and picks in lacquers and paint or removing anything else from a surface without damaging the substrate.
    Before drawing out the burr, wax the edge with paraffin wax.
    Now using a Round Burnisher
    such as supplied in this scraperset, or using the top of a smooth swedish style wood chisel.
    Hold the burnisher at about 5° downwards and about 15° forward and draw the burnisher towards oneself, the reverse the burnisher to about 10° backwards and move the burnisher away from oneself both whilst applying downward pressure.
    Repeat this process until one can feel a extension of the scraper.
    In the beginning this has to be done slowly looking at how the burnisher is held during the drawing out after a while however the brain will take over and this becomes a natural movement which doesn't even require thinking.

    As you can see in the picture the drawing out of the top corner serves to extra sharpen the edge.

  • Setting the Burr
    It is time to set the burr.
    This is done by rolling the now already very sharp burr over whilst enlengthen him.

    The burr is rolled over using the burnishing iron, (or the edge of a chisel) by drawing it upwards in one movement.
    This can only be done once.
    As a second draw will, indeed produce a larger burr but the sharp edge will be rolled over to far and have become virtually useless.
    The only remedy is to start all over again.
    In order to produce a nice large burr with the sharp edge at the right angle, it is necessary to hold the burnishing iron the correct way.
    The angle should be backwards at about 45° whilst at 90° with the scraper.
    Then draw the burnishing iron towards oneself, in one fluid motion while applying pressure towards the scraper.
  • Redoing the Scraper
    When refiling the scraper make sure that one files the scraper down to the flat of the blade so that the burr and the hollow behind it are removed.
    Not filing enough away makes the angle of the corner between the flat of the scraper and the blade less thus preventing the full sharpness of the new burr.


 

 
Work Sharp ™ WS3000 Tool Sharpener
This special package includes an additional slotted wheel. $19.99 Value! Air-cooled, dry sharpening system eliminates the mess of a wet system and delivers higher material removal rates without affecting the steel temper. Compare to sharpening systems that cost $100 more! Unique design allows for fast and easy reshaping of new or damaged chisels and planes (up to 2" wide), and fast honing of a micro bevel. Bevel angles are adjustable and are set in the sharpening port — not in a fixture or jig — so switching between angles is simple and fast. With maintenance-free tempered glass grinding wheel. Click here to watch the video! --- 2007 National Hardware Show Award Winner!

Work Sharp ™ WS3000 Tool Sharpener

Work Sharp ™ WS3000 Tool Sharpener